The aesthetic research project that Francesco Murano is developing as an emerging Fashion Designer began several years ago in the studios of the IstitutoEuropeo di Design in Milan and continues to focus on the contrast and dialogue between the Classic and Renaissance worlds, now explored in a new collection for autumn/winter 2022.
Murano presents a woman who is a geometric linchpin in the world, with a strong, decisive attitude – a woman who is, in a sense, “vitruvian”. Thenine looks (for a total of twelve garments, plus accessories) recall Greek-inspired statuary and dynamic forms (already a cornerstone of his previous collections) but are updated to offer new balance, inspired by the Renaissance, geometric design, and Leonardo da Vinci.
Murano’s feminine figure is inscribed in a circle, a form that coexists with other geometries and that dominates in the balance between opposites: the drapery (and the movement it creates) stems from, and is held together by, circular shapes, just as the accessories are circular, coexisting alongside square or spiral shapes, in metal and wood, to once again highlight the contrast.
Ultimately, a woman in motion, just as a circle is always in motion, infinite. The stylistic choices made during the shoot highlight this, with wide-angle shots, as do the dull, dusty shades, which inspire tranquillity and highlight a sense of the material, like classic sculptures. A materiality that is highlighted by the choice of fabrics (offered by Como-based Carnet): a flannel-effect wool that is delicate to the touch, a cotton that recalls it, and a soft jersey.
“With the nine outfits in this new collection I bring together two different worlds and try to harmonise them using the perfect shape of the circle and that of the woman, who serves as the connector between opposites. Nine outfits for a number (3 x 3) that, squared, represents cosmic perfection, a number that, according to certain schools of thought, finds its graphic representation in the circle, and one that, according to Pythagoras, is continuously reproduced, highlighting perpetual motion” – comments Francesco Murano.
“With my latest work, I therefore continue this aesthetic research relating to the Greek world, but in a more balanced way, exploring the contrast between Classicism and Baroque that already characterised my thesis collection as well as that I presented at Who is On Next?, taking inspiration now from Leonardo’s Codex Atlanticus but with a feminine twist.
The woman I depict has a particular attitude, she’s an extrovert who stands out in society – she’s at the centre of geometry and the world, contrary to what occurred with Renaissance studies, which were always centred around the male figure”.
Who is Francesco Murano
Born in 1997, in Buccino (Salerno), he graduated in Fashion Design at IED Milan in 2019 with his ‘OssimoroPlastico’ collection that won the fifth edition of Milano Moda Graduate, also earning Francesco the Camera Nazionale Fashion Award. It was on that catwalk that he was spotted by Zerina Akers, stylist to Beyoncé, who chose to use one of the young designer’s shoes in the singer’s Spirit video. But the defining moment came in January 2020, when the star appeared at Roc Nation’s pre-Grammys brunch wearing the Ossimoro Dress, a gown from Murano’s thesis collection. Further recognition came last autumn, when he won the 16th edition of Who is On Next?, a scouting project promoted by Altaroma and Vogue Italia and dedicated to the latest fashion talents.
CREDIT: Mattia Guolo
Talent: Marie Kone
Art direction: Francesco Murano
Styling: Pasquale Cangemi
Make Up: Jury Schiavi
Hair: Domenico Papa
Photo ass: Elena Benvenuto
Si ringrazia Alesandro Ivaldi di Carnet, divisione di Ratti S.p.A,
per la sensibilità al supporto dei giovani talenti del Design